Written: 26th Jul 2010 | Last Updated: 26th Jul 2010
If you’re lucky enough to be heading to the south of France anytime soon, I’d like to recommend a wonderful place to stay in the hill town of Vence. Sitting elegantly above Nice, some 20 minutes away by car, Vence - once the Roman settlement of Vintium - is a thriving community graced with medieval charm, interesting churches (as diverse as the 11th C Cathedral of Nativité-de-Notre-Dame and the 20th C Chapelle du Rosaire des Dominicaines designed and decorated by Henri Matisse), winding cobbled alleyways lined with quaint boutiques, poissonniers, artisanal boulangeries and patisseries, and the requisite street cafés busy with young and old sipping strong coffee, chocolat chaud or even an early morning beer.
There’s a marché being set up in the town square as we walk past - trestle tables positioned and decorated with bunches of freshly-picked garden fruits and vegetables, bolts of fabric and useful household items, various handicrafts, and also here and there theatrical groupings of second-hand furniture - all conjured up in front of curious shopkeepers, café patrons and passersby. It is a perfect introduction to French town life, and under the strengthening sun of a late May morning, Vence seems pretty close to perfect.
In the Place du Frêne - by the famously ancient ash tree - stands La Maison du Frêne, offering accommodation of intelligence, comfort and imaginative artistic surprises. Thierry and Guy are hosts, and have created four fabulous suites for adults of discerning taste. This is not a thrown-together-to-make-a-quick-euro B & B...rather a restored home of remarkable tranquillity revved up with contemporary artworks juxtaposed with flair and a wicked sense of fun.
The heart of it all, the kitchen, is a riot of colour, patterns and warmth, as is the adjacent more formal lounge-library (both rich with art), and in one or the other you will enjoy a delicious petit déjeuner of fresh fruits, croissants, breads and pastries, homemade jams and local honey, marvellous just-brewed coffee or a pot of tea...served with energy and efficiency by Thierry, who also happily offers great advice for day-trips and must-see attractions in the region. He came to his host position via the Paris fashion world, and not surprisingly his people skills are as polished as his style. One truly feels like a treasured guest at La Maison du Frêne, and this is a gift.
Our excellent suite (La Vallauris) consisted of a vestibule, a double bedroom with an attractive iron filigree bed-head, mix-and-match antique bedside tables with ceramic lamps, pretty crystal-endowed wall sconces, salon chairs...a sitting room with a chandelier, fine writing desk, French mirrored chest of drawers with large etched mirror above, coffee table books, cubist paintings and lovely sculptures...a large bathroom with double basins, raised shower cubicle with giant “rain” showerhead, lots of bench space for spreading out cosmetics and toiletries, and a separate toilet. The artwork throughout was devoted to the female nude - each element chosen for individual beauty as well as collective harmony. Views through windows overlooking the famous ash, square and the Château de Villeneuve added to the refined ambiance. To have so much space, of such calibre, at such a reasonable tariff is rare in France (anywhere, really), and therefore must be celebrated.
Our travelling companions stayed in the airy, regal Suite La Chapelle - its rooms deliciously decorated with a selection of paintings and sculptures celebrating the male nude. The remaining two accommodations, Suite Pop Art and Suite Le Château, have been designed to follow suit...the former an ode to 60s pop luxe, the latter capturing the colour and warmth of the Mediterranean.
Jeff Koons, Niki de Saint-Phalle, David Hockney and many other artists, including locals (Thierry included), are represented in the remarkable collection of this unique 18th C house - truly a gallery assembled with panache.
Step outside La Maison du Frêne into the square, go left onto the open esplanade Fernand Moutet, and feast your eyes on the panorama of the Vallée de la Lubiane, les Baous and the Chapelle du Rosaire. It’s a wonderful introduction to Vence. From here, head back toward the town centre and explore to your heart’s content.
La Maison du Frêne,
1, Place du Frêne
06140 Vence
France
Parking is available at 2 public car parks: du Grand Jardin adjacent or Marie Antoinette about 3 minutes away
Must dos: Visit gorgeous Saint Paul de Vence, the Fondation Maeght gallery and garden and enjoy a fabulous alfresco meal at Restaurant Le Tilleul (with stunning views), also in St Paul de Vence