Written: 26th Jul 2010 | Last Updated: 26th Jul 2010
Les Deux Acacias…
Travelling in France inevitably means eating French food…although I suppose you could, if you were inclined to be a philistine, only frequent foreign-owned fast food outlets - they do exist - but then you’d be seriously foolish to miss out on the diverse regional delights and extraordinary culinary history on offer from Brittany to Provence, Aquitaine to Alsace, from Languedoc to the Loire. Arguably, no other nation surpasses the French in the culinary arts.
The food you are actually served in France could be ‘life-changing’ because it is better than anything you’ve ever tasted (remember Julia Child’s Sole Meunière in Rouen?)…or surprisingly disappointing and ordinary; but in truth (as everywhere) it generally falls somewhere in between. You can, of course, seek out those exquisite two or three Michelin star restaurants to experience the best of the best, the highest of the ‘haute’ (mortgaging your house beforehand), but more likely you will get to know, respect and love French food by dropping into cosy little bistros…or seafood cafés under blue and white striped awnings…or perhaps by patronising family-run concerns serving hearty gastronomie traditionnelle.
Founded in 1922, Les Deux Acacias, in the Languedoc village of Villepinte, is just such a family-run hotel restaurant, offering genuine warmth and charm…the whole place literally glowing with an unaffected spirit of welcome. From the moment we walked in, we felt a rare ‘chez nous’ comfort, and because we’d arrived a little too early for dinner, were politely directed towards a large couch and group of chairs by the window near the entry to the old stone house; here we spread out amongst magazines, plants and toys (yes!) and ordered drinks from the bar. A toddler belonging to the owners was beetling about playing adventurously, setting a scene of familial happiness; various relatives/staff members kept watch, chatted, laughed and got about their business preparing everything for the evening…all the while maintaining focus and enjoying the process.
Once guided into the front dining room, I was surprised by its spaciousness and elegance; some effort had been made to create a light, chic décor in understated Occitan style…buff-coloured ceramic floor tiles, attractive tablecloths and window treatments, dark wood ladder-back chairs, local wines on display. Other diners began filing in, and soon there was a buzz as menus offering la cuisine du terroir were read and questions were asked of the two gracious waitresses. I had no trouble ordering…Cassoulet, naturellement! I’d tried my first in Castelnaudary, and enjoyed it so much was keen to try again. And I wasn’t disappointed…it was absolutely delicious…rustic, rich and thoroughly satisfying. My husband and our friends (with whom we were cruising the Canal du Midi) were very pleased with their choices, each course beautifully presented, with a stamp of regional authenticity. I won’t go into detail here as this is not a food review per se…rather an overview of what makes a French restaurant ‘good’.
So, what does make it ‘good’? In my opinion, the food and the feelings you have while eating are of equal value; some purists may care to argue with this…but for me, astonishing tasting delicacies can turn sour in the mouth if staff members are rude and the house mood arrogant or contrived…just as quite nice food is elevated when attention to detail is comprehensive and thoughtful, and waiters/waitresses display an interest in patrons, knowledge of the menu, efficiency and pride in their work. It’s all about the experience after all, and the memories you take with you once you walk out the door.
Les Deux Acacias was a revelation in that it combined the best of local fare with intelligence, friendliness and flair; we felt extremely happy to have chosen it…we were well fed and well looked after in a harmonious environment, surely the objects of the exercise, but ones not often achieved to such a high standard, particularly in tucked-away rural villages.
As we exited, some of the family who own and work there were sharing a drink on the terrasse, engaged in conversation, enjoying the last of the late-spring twilight. In food, fortune favours talented, inspired hard workers…but also, it favours those who know when to stop, relax and smell the Cassoulet!
http://www.les-deux-acacias.com/